food & drink

Paella with the shells off was invented here in the 19^th century for a regular who couldn’t be bothered to peel shrimp. They named it Arròs Parellada, for dandy Juli Maria Parellada, and still serve it – along with five other paellas – at 7 Portes, so named because the ground floor has seven doors open to Passeig Isabel II. It opened as a coffeehouse in 1836, turned restaurant in 1929, and has traded on its cuisine and its address in equal measure ever since.

The building is part of Porxos d’en Xifré, a Parisian-style arcade commissioned by shipping magnate Josep Xifré in a nod to Rue de Rivoli. Inside: checkered tile floors, timber ceilings, white-clothed tables, bow-tied waiters and brass plaques on the banquettes marking where Lorca, Orson Welles, Pelé, Che Guevara, Gorbachev and Picasso once sat. Works by Picasso, Miró and Tàpies hang on the walls. A pianist plays many nights.

Beyond the paellas, the menu reads like a greatest-hits of mid-century Catalan cooking: house canelons, bacallà fritters, pan con tomate, roasted vegetables, jamón ibérico sliced to order, anchovies in vinegar – an honest, polished version of what’s on a hundred other menus around town, served in a much better room. Many call it a high point – traditional, professional, worth the price – but some complain of slipping service and dishes that don’t always live up to the postcard. Prices sit on the higher end of €€€.

Go knowing what you’re there for. The plaques, the Parellada and a room that has hosted six generations of Barcelona – that’s worth the ticket. The space is big, with several dining rooms over two floors, so walk-ins often work on weekdays; a reservation through the website is easy when you want one.